For the G note in Twinkle Twinkle: playing the closed G (the 3rd fret of the E string) will work whether you playing on a high G or low G ukulele. However, on a low G ukulele, the open G is the note G that is an octave lower. So if the chord sheet says it is for high G ukulele then you may see either the fretted or open note. If it says it's written for a low G ukulele than the open G and closed G are not interchangeable and the writer will spell out which G it's suppose to be. Sometimes a chord melody may call for a G followed by an F, so it might sound better to play the 3rd fret of the E string and slide to the first fret on the same string, rather than the open G string and then the F on the E string. Notewise the two sequences are equivalent but the sound may be different (artist's discretion). Also, if the song is intended to achieve a campanella effect, then I think the open G is more likely to be chosen than the fretted G.

As you grow as a ukulele player, you may find you favor one size works best for you when playing primarily chords and another size works better for playing fingerstyle melody lines.

Why do you want to release the strings from the bridge? If it's to change to new strings, check out Matt's TLC course - - - he shows you how to change strings.

Has anyone suggested you try a tenor ukulele? It's between the size of a concert and a baritone, and the chords are the same for soprano, concert, and tenor so you wouldn't have to learn baritone chords. A tenor may solve your problem of spacing between the strings and spacing between the frets.

If you tune to DGBE and you play the same chord shapes, then a song written in the key of C for GCEA is transposed to the key of G for DGBE. So you can play the song using the same chord shapes but know you not playing the same chord names. That would be a problem if you are playing with other people, but as a solo, go for it. However, if you want to play the song in the key of C in DGBE tuning then look up the chord diagrams in a baritone chord sheet. You will recognize the shapes, they will just have different names. For example, a C major chord will look like an F major chord. Hope I haven't confused you too much!

If the only difference is the G-string is either low or high-G, then it's still the same chord from the perspective of the four notes. It's just that the note that is played on the G-string will be one octave lower in the case of the low G.

I was just relaying what was said by people on the Ukulele Forum. But if I had to guess, I would say lumpy was a way of saying "not smooth". So perhaps a jarring sound?

I'd give lessons 2 and 3 a try before deciding whether to drop the entire course. The chords and the techniques are easier to finger.

You're in for a great time.

This question has been posed on the Ukulele Forum. People who have tried a low C say it sounds "lumpy" and have suggested going with a baritone uke if a deeper sound is wanted. Or you could get an 8 string uke and replace the C5 octave string with a C3 octave string and see how it sounds to you.

https://nolaschoolofmusic.com/ukulele-tab-paperThere may be other web resources where the string names are on the left side. P.S. I find the already printed tab sheets to have too narrow a set of lines for my eyesight. So I use Excel to generate my own set of fines, then I can vary the row height as needed.

At one of his concerts, Jake talked about how Mick Fleetwood had Jake and his bass player (who started out as SW tech support to Jake) flown to his home in Maui so the three could collaborate on the album.

I came across this YouTube video "I Finally Tried the Low G String on My Ukulele (re-entrant tuning vs. linear tuning)". Disclaimer: I haven't viewed the video as yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmrFHrv9ONg

I would change the tenor to the Low-G and keep the soprano High-G. Unless it's a situation of changing a single broken string, I change all the strings at the same time. It makes it easy to clean the neck and oil the frets. Also I place the end of each string under the adjacent string so in my situation it would look out of place to have a single string sticking out. P.S. it's worth the investment to get a string winder.

The general advice for forming chords is to place your index finger first and the other fingers will follow. That's generally the case for barre chords. But in this situation you are going from all open strings (Am7) to the Bm7 so what you might try is placing the ring finger on the B note of the g-string first then follow with the index finger barre. I don't know what finger picking pattern you are playing but if it involves playing the g-string note and then the c-string note, then by placing the ring finger first and playing that note, you buy yourself some time to get your index finger down to play the other three notes of the Bm. While you are playing the Bm, you can mentally ready your pinky to play the C note on the a-string to help achieve a quick Bm to C chord change..

What are the chords that precede the Bm and the chords that follow?

I suppose you could install a pickup and pipe the sound through speakers.

I think the course is complete. 16 lessons in all.

Hope that as a teacher, you also feel good about "getting through" to your students.

One reason I posed the question is when I did a search of sheet music for Row, Row, Row Your Boat, I found versions that are in 2/4, 4/4, 6/8, 12/8. It would be interesting to hear a professional singer sing the song in all the different tempos. (Side note: the reason I was thinking about that particular tune was I thought it would be an easy one to practice triplets ("merrily, merrily, merrily") and maybe even clawhammer).